Smithville is a step back in time.
Somewhere between the one-hour drive that separates Philadelphia from Atlantic City is a charming part of South Jersey that feels truly like a step back in time - because it is.
The centerpiece of this area of Atlantic County is a landmark resort that opened more than 100 years ago: the Stockton Seaview Hotel & Golf Club. In the decades since its pre-World War I debut, Seaview has hosted everyone from U.S. Presidents (Dwight Eisenhower) to rock stars (the Rolling Stones) to future royalty (Grace Kelly, for her 'Sweet 16' party in 1946).
On a recent summer weekend, Seaview welcomed a small group of college friends, myself among them, for a "girlfriends' getaway weekend." We were looking for an easy-to-get-to destination for a one-night stay, where we could relax and catch up. Plus, we were eager to finally spend a little time at the historic resort purchased a few years earlier by our alma mater, the then-Richard Stockton College of New Jersey.
For the first 70 years of its existence, Seaview - a dramatic low-rise white structure that overlooks Reed's Bay in Absecon - was a private golf club and hotel that catered to area business executives and their families. In 1984, it was opened to the public as a Marriott Resort. Today, Seaview is owned by Stockton University, and operated by Dolce, a lodging brand under the Wyndham Hotel Group.
Relaxing in the spacious hotel lobby area, we enjoyed the array of historical photos on display that depict celebrities who have either golfed or stayed there. Outside of the Oval Room, still used today for private parties, is a framed photo of the teenaged and radiant future Princess Grace of Monaco, dancing with her dad in that very room. It's an especially poignant piece of history from a place that has decades' worth to share.
Stockton University we soon learned, has a strong, yet not publicly seen presence at Seaview. Students majoring in the college's quickly-expanding Hospitality & Tourism Management Studies often intern there. And, lucky for us, current Stockton students, as well as alumni, can enjoy discounts on hotel stays and meals. Interestingly, during the academic school year, one wing of the 296-room hotel even houses Stockton upperclassman (who enter from a private area, but can enjoy amenities such as the indoor pool).
Stockton's current President, Dr. Harvey Kesselman, himself Stockton graduate from the '70s - calls the 2010 purchase of Seaview a "win-win for all involved."
"We could not be happier," Kesselman said recently by phone. "Seaview brings so much to the university - in addition to revenue, it serves as an academic laboratory for our hospitality students, it provides residential housing for students who take extraordinary pride in it, and we also can hold conferences there. It's a first-rate resort and a big part of our region's history."
Indeed, Seaview - home to two world-class golf courses and host of the popular ShopRite LPGA Classic held each June has been a gem of Atlantic County since opening in 1914. Located on 670 wooded acres of pinelands, the three-story resort is an hour's drive from Philadelphia, only eight miles from the hustle and bustle of Atlantic City's casinos, and about five minutes away from the charming Historic Village of Smithville.
The Historic Village of Smithville, only a few minutes from Seaview, offers more than 60 shops and restaurants to choose from. (Photo by Nicole Pensiero). Seaview proved perfect for a one-night stay, and we couldn't believe how much we were able to do and enjoy in little over 24 hours. Arriving on a recent Sunday, we'd made reservations in advance for the popular Sunday Brunch, held in Seaview's main dining room from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.
The Champagne Brunch manages to be both elegant and relaxing - and there's something for every taste, from prime rib to freshly made omelets, and some of the best bread pudding north of the Mason-Dixon Line. The $28.95 per person cost for adults also includes beverages, including "bottomless" mimosas. (Children ages 6-12 are $18.95; and kids five and under are free). The buffet draws a big crowd on Sundays made up of both hotel guests and visitors to the Atlantic City area.
With our Stockton discount - all I needed to do was show my alumni card - our group of five saved nearly $40 on our meal, an added bonus. (Seaview recently introduced a popular Thursday night Seafood Buffet, too).
For less elaborate dining, the Coastal Grille, located just off the lobby, offers pub fare - including lunch, dinner and "small plates" - in a laid-back setting. There's even a vegan menu and a dessert menu; cocktails are sold there and at the lobby bar.
After brunch, we decided it would be more fun to work on our tans than to work off our meals, so we headed to Seaview's outdoor courtyard pool. There's a full-service snack bar by the pool, as well as an outdoor Jacuzzi. Seaview also has an indoor lap pool; both pools are open from 7 a.m. until 10 p.m.
We were especially impressed by the great customer service at Seaview and, in chatting with various staff members, learned that many employees have worked at the resort for decades. Indeed, there's a wonderful, welcoming vibe.
After a few hours of pool lounging, decided to take a quick drive up Route 9 to nearby Smithville, home to more than 50 restaurants and shops. The late Fred and Ethel Noyes founded Historic Smithville in 1952 with the purchase of the Smithville Inn, then called the Old Stage Coach Inn. The couple expanded the complex by relocating numerous historic buildings from throughout South Jersey and turning them into stores. From the 1960s, well into the 1980s, Smithville was a popular stop for tourists heading to or from Atlantic City.
But by the early 1990s, the Smithville complex began to decline, changing hands several times. By the time it was sold for $150,000 at a 1995 sheriff's sale, both major on-site restaurants had closed and many stores were shuttered. But within a few years, things had turned around and today, Smithville is again a busy and beautiful place.
I hadn't been to Smithville since my college days, and I'll admit, I found it far more appealing now than I did "back in the day." It's lovely to stroll around the wooded grounds, complete with a large lake, and relax either outdoors or inside a shop or restaurant. We especially enjoyed the Smithville Peanut Butter Company - where you can enjoy free samples of homemade peanut butter varieties, and purchase reasonably priced jars of the addictive stuff - as well as the Little Egg Harbor Soap Company and The Merry Goldfinch gift shop.
Having skipped lunch - heck, Seaview's brunch truly was breakfast and lunch - we opted for light, early evening meal at Fred & Ethel's Lantern Light Tavern (named in honor of the Noyes'). There, I savored one of their signature sandwiches - "The Governor" - a sort of baked casserole made with seasoned ground beef, onions, bacon bits, cheddar Jack cheese and Brioche bread.
From there, it was a quick drive from Smithville back to Seaview, where we took a late night dip in the indoor pool before turning in for the evening. The next morning, we enjoyed a yummy breakfast in the dining room, then said our "farewells for now" before heading back to our respective lives in South Jersey and Philadelphia. No doubt, our college gang will return to Seaview again; next time, we plan to add a casino run to the agenda or at least a beauty treatment at the adjoining Elizabeth Arden Red Door Salon.
For more information about special events and offerings, visit www.stocktonseaview.com and www.historicsmithvillenj.com.
Nicole Pensiero is a freelance South Jersey-based travel writer and a member of the North American Travel Journalists Association of American.